Missing the $6 spring will cause random low engagement. We see that on Subaru turbo pull clutches from time to time. The spring will help push the fluid back into the master and prevent the fork from bouncing. Also helps to put some kind of clamp on the slave holding it compressed while bleeding.Īlso given your initial symptoms of the engagement point changing look for a missing return spring somewhere on the fork. The masters have tiny passages and don’t refill quickly. If it doesn’t drop pump the pedal with the bleeder closed and watch again. Watch for the level in the master to drop on the up stroke and wait for it to stop dropping before proceeding. Just slowly up and down while operating the bleeder. With clutch hydraulics you have to go very slow. It is probably one of there things:ģ Broken, cracked, bent, etc clutch fork. It’s highly unlikely you are dealing with a clutch or transmission issue. The car is a diesel Kia Ceed -2010 with 136k miles on it. So far, I have replaced the slave cylinder, but that didn’t help much.Ĭould all these issues be linked to the same faulty part? Any suggestions are highly appreciated. However, clutch doesn’t slip at all when in gear, and grabs very good. Selecting a gear while clutch is fully depressed changes the engine sound a little, as if the clutch is slipping while in gear and foot still all the way down on the clutch pedal. But when I shut off the engine, suddenly all gears go in like a warm knife through butter. It’s at its worst when I’m stationary and idling. Then when changing into 4th, the engagement point is down at the very bottom again.Īlso, 1st, 2nd and reverse gear are sometimes difficult to select. But that’s not all, sometimes when I accelerate hard on lets say 2nd gear, and then proceed to change into 3rd gear and release the clutch quickly, suddenly the engagement point changes during that shift, and is now half-way up. So I have a problem that the clutch starts engaging when lifting my foot up half an inch.